Janet Flora | Writer

GREAT THINGS...FROM SMALL PLACES
"The Itty Bitty Kitchen Handbook": Help for chefs who are space-challenged
by Janet Flora
The Southampton Press, March 2006

In an era of sprawling floor plans, ballroom-size kitchens with enormous granite islands, industrial-size refrigerators and six-burner Viking stoves, it would seem that a book on how to make the most of (and in) a tiny kitchen is unnecessary in the Hamptons. But one need only remember that this was once an area of small cottages, fishing shacks, and modest homes with kitchens that had more in common with Manhattan apartments than the grand mansions that dominate some neighborhoods. Not to mention, many East Enders live in modest apartments carved out from single-family homes, where the kitchen may be no more than a wall off the dining area.

So, whether you have a kitchen that is the size of a stadium or the size of a closet, you can learn to maximize space, be a more efficient cook and make great recipes by following the advice of Justin Spring in his book "The Itty Bitty Kitchen Handbook." Mr. Spring, a longtime resident of the Hamptons and Manhattan, is an established curator, art historian and author with a list of books including "The Essential Jackson Pollock" and "The Essential Edward Hopper."

When Mr. Spring first started coming east in the summers, most of his rentals didn't include the luxury of a spacious kitchen-typically, it was just the opposite. His first rental was the space over the garage belonging to the home of Mary Johnson, the former Suffolk County medical examiner. But what the garage apartment lacked in space was compensated by the prime location on Main Street in Southampton Village—it was next to the Fairfield Porter house, giving Mr. Spring plenty of material for his book "Fairfield Porter: A Life in Art."

Small Quarters
Mr. Spring spent many of his formative years aboard the family sailboat, where he first began to understand the challenges of living in tight quarters. But it was probably those experiences writing about artists and living in small spaces that ultimately inspired the new book.

"I like to write books that answer questions," said Mr. Spring. To be sure, "The Itty Bitty Kitchen Handbook" answers questions you never knew you had, whether you're working in a small kitchen or completely disorganized in a large one.

In his studio apartment in New York City, where Mr. Spring has lived for the past 14 years, there is, among other things, original artwork on the walls, including several paintings by Fairfield Porter, and a small dining table with a drop leaf that raises to accommodate guests. Mr. Spring likes to entertain and is not daunted by his small living space. There is a built-in nook-like desk for his laptop computer and papers. And just about a foot away from the desk is the island counter that separates his Pullman kitchen from the rest of the room.

Clean It Up
Before Mr. Spring had his desk built, his kitchen island was spilling over with papers. Once he got that work out of his kitchen, the cleanup continued. "People tend to hold on to some items out of sentimental value, and that causes clutter," he said. If you're hanging on to a tea set that your grandmother used and it's collecting dust and taking up valuable space in your kitchen, for example, you might want to donate it to a thrift shop, or at least relocate it to the basement, Mr. Spring suggests. He adds that "real antiques don't belong in the kitchen."

Even in the largest kitchens. Mr. Spring believes that kitchen countertops are too crowded with rarely used appliances and utensils. In his own 45-square-foot city kitchen, he keeps all of his cutlery and many of his cooking utensils in one drawer. Those that he uses more often are kept near the stove, where they're in containers hung with suction cups or magnets.

Other space-saving ideas include eliminating bulky knife blocks and relying instead on knife sleeves. While he likes "knife-safe blade protectors" available from www.organize-it.com, he is also a proponent of making homemade cardboard sheaths.

In general, Mr. Spring doesn't think a good cook needs many knives."I agree with Julia Child, who believed any cook needs only three knives-chef's, pairing, serrated-and a sharpener," he said. But he further warned, "They shouldn't be inexpensive." In his book he recommends the Forschner 8-inch Chef's Knife, which costs about $30 and can be found online at (www.Premiumknifes.com).

Rethinking Appliances
There are several appliances on the countertop of Mr. Spring's New York apartment that he could not be without. There is a small microwave oven, and a food processor/blender. "There is really no need for both a food processor and a blender," he said.

But his most treasured countertop appliance is his toaster oven. "I love the convenience and practicality of the toaster oven," he said. "You don't have to get your kitchen hot, and you're not bending down to look inside." In his book, Mr. Spring discusses some essentials to consider when purchasing a toaster oven, and even though it's one of his favorite ways to bake and cook, he does mention that if counter space is extremely limited or you're worried about electricity charges, your conventional oven is fine.

You won't find a fancy espresso or cappuccino maker in Justin Spring's kitchen. He believes in making espresso the way it's brewed in many Italian households: in a moka pot—an aluminum or stainless espresso pot that is used on the stovetop.

There is no spice rack in Mr. Spring's kitchen; his spices are stored in stainless cylinders with clear tops that he bought at The Container Store, and are available online at www.containerstore.com. The bottom of the cylinders, which are about the size of baby food jars, are magnetized and sit on the side of his refrigerator next to his stove. They're not only handy and off the counter, but they can have the look of a dimensional art arrangement.

Spreading Out
Mr. Spring no longer spends his time in the Hamptons in a rented apartment over a garage. Instead, he's able to spread out at the home of his friend Tony Korner in Bridgehampton, where he sometimes sequesters himself for long periods of time when he needs to meet a publisher's deadline. The kitchen at this house is anything but itty bitty, but Mr. Spring still applies his minimalist principles. And here, too, the toaster oven rules.

When it comes to shopping for cookware and kitchen items in the Hamptons, Mr. Spring loves Kmart for items like Pyrex dishes. When he wants something more glamorous, he heads to Sylvester's in Sag Harbor, which he compliments for having a great assortment of home and kitchen items. He also recommends yard sales as a great place to find things that you might want to try.

"You can find a great set of copper bowls and pay as little as three dollars for them," he said. "If you don't like them, you haven't made a huge investment."

Future Projects
Justin Spring is at work on a book about the tattoo artist and novelist Samuel M. Steward. But he is already thinking about another fun project that will not only answer a question but put a smile on a reader's face at the same time: he is considering writing a book called "Taming the Weekend Kitchen." This book would explore what to do with leftovers, and how to handle unexpected guests who stop by for a visit, or a weekend.

Even though the book is barely in the works, Mr. Spring already has some advice for keeping the kitchen Hamptons guest-ready: "Stock your pantry shelves, keep a file of five-minute recipes, and learn to relax while entertaining-and one way to do this is to delegate chores."

The"Itty Bitty Kitchen Handbook" is a great, fun read with loads of useful tips, and as a friend of Mr. Spring recently suggested, it's a great gag gift for anybody out east living in a cafeteria-sized kitchen.